How to Install a Tubular Latch and Door Handle Set

Quick answer

Installing a tubular latch and door handle set is a straightforward DIY task if you measure carefully and align the latch with the strike plate before screwing anything tight. The key is getting the 57mm backset centered and the latch face flush with the door edge.

Step-by-step installation

1. Mark the latch position: Measure 57mm from the door edge to mark the center of the handle spindle hole. Use a combination square to draw a horizontal line across the door edge at the same height as your handles. The latch faceplate should sit centered on that edge line. A common mistake is marking the height by eye — always use a square and measure from the floor if the door is already hung.
2. Drill the spindle hole and mortise: Drill a hole through the door face at the spindle mark, using a bit that matches the handle spindle diameter. Then, on the door edge, drill a mortise for the latch body — the hole depth should match the latch length so the faceplate sits flush. Drill the edge hole slightly deeper than needed so the latch doesn't bottom out. If the faceplate protrudes, the door won't close properly.
3. Insert the latch and mark the faceplate: Push the latch into the edge hole with the beveled side facing the door closing direction. Trace around the faceplate with a sharp knife, then remove the latch and chisel a shallow recess so the faceplate sits perfectly flush with the door edge. Skipping the chisel step leaves the faceplate proud, which scrapes the door frame and prevents the door from closing fully.
4. Install the latch and handles: Screw the faceplate into the door edge. Insert the handle spindles through the latch mechanism from both sides, then attach the handle roses and lever handles according to the manufacturer's instructions. Tighten the grub screws to secure the handles to the spindle. Over-tightening the grub screws can strip the thread or crack the handle rose. Tighten just enough to hold the handle without play.
5. Fit the strike plate: Close the door and mark where the latch bolt meets the door frame. Mortise a recess for the strike plate so it sits flush with the frame surface, then screw it in place. Test the door — the latch should slide in smoothly without sticking or rattling. If the latch doesn't align with the strike plate hole, the door won't latch. Adjust the strike plate position slightly or file the hole until the bolt enters freely.
6. Final adjustments: Open and close the door several times. If the handle feels stiff or the latch drags, loosen the faceplate screws slightly and reposition the latch. For a sticky strike plate, file the inside edge of the hole to give the bolt a little more room. A small adjustment at this stage saves you from having to re-mortise the door later. Patience here is what gives you that smooth, consistent feel.

Product used in this guide

• TUBULAR LATCH / DOOR HANDLE / 57MM: Faceplate and strike plate are made from machined solid metal with a hand-brushed surface. The heavily-sprung single-direction latch ensures a smooth, consistent feel. The solid metal construction means the latch won't warp over time, and the strong spring keeps the door firmly closed without sagging — but it also means precise alignment is critical so the latch doesn't bind.